New Toilet Flange Installation on Metal Pipe?
pontiacowner asked:
I have a toilet that has been raised with wood for the fact that the drain pipe sits too high above the floor(3/4″). It’s always been like this and finally want to fix it the right way. First off, what do I use to cut the pipe? Not sure how sparks and sewer gas react with each other and don’t want to find out the fun way. I’d like to keep my eyebrows. Second, does a new metal flange have a rubber o-ring or seal to seal it to the cast iron pipe or does it have to be culked or such. I’m not a newbie to plumbing but never delt with toilet drains. Wax rings are no problem to do, but like to get rid of a hack job. Thanks for any info.
One thing I forgot to mention, the wood that was used that I called a hack job, was a sheet of particle board, cut to the same shape as the bottom of the toilet. The flange is 3/4″ above the floor and is not screwed to it. It’s obvious why wax rings don’t hold for long. Thanks for the answers!
Foundry
I have a toilet that has been raised with wood for the fact that the drain pipe sits too high above the floor(3/4″). It’s always been like this and finally want to fix it the right way. First off, what do I use to cut the pipe? Not sure how sparks and sewer gas react with each other and don’t want to find out the fun way. I’d like to keep my eyebrows. Second, does a new metal flange have a rubber o-ring or seal to seal it to the cast iron pipe or does it have to be culked or such. I’m not a newbie to plumbing but never delt with toilet drains. Wax rings are no problem to do, but like to get rid of a hack job. Thanks for any info.
One thing I forgot to mention, the wood that was used that I called a hack job, was a sheet of particle board, cut to the same shape as the bottom of the toilet. The flange is 3/4″ above the floor and is not screwed to it. It’s obvious why wax rings don’t hold for long. Thanks for the answers!
Foundry
Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
5 Responses to “New Toilet Flange Installation on Metal Pipe?”
Hi,
I moved a toilet myself from one side of the room to the other. I used a sawzall to cut the metal pipe. You could probably rent one. Buy good blades.
I used a a section of plastic pipe with a new plastic flange and joined it with one of those rubber coupling things. It’s a piece of rubber tube with hose clamps on either end.
Did the trick.
Sujit
First I would go to a good rental store-they have a cutter which is like a chain used around cast iron pipe. I would then cut far enough below the floor to remove cast pipe. I would then buy a transition coll-or- usually rubber- with clamps and connect white pvc pipe probably 4″ to fit the project. sure to allow for cleanouts(tread ed) .You can buy all pvc pipe and glues and fittings at home dep. stores. Use new closet flanges and wax rings to fit the occasion. Try them before gluing. Get a building permit and plug the sewer pipe with a rag to stop sewer gases while working. Good Luck
Use a sawzall with a bimetal blade they make a replacement flange that you insert inside the old pipe and then tighten with an allen wrench as you tighten it it draws a rubber ring tighter and tighter to the inside surface. it is called and expansion flange. in the picture it is the white peice that compresses and seals.
ps the methane is at such low levels it is not going to ignite
Most toilets that are installed on cast systems actually have a lead trasition pc.that is bent (hammered) over a cast flange.if this is the case you need only remove the toilet and straight the lead so that you can cut the required length off. then replace or refasten the flange..depending on what you find under the toilet you are just going to have to eliminate any concrete or whatever may be there that may be in the way….I always use the wax ring that comes with a plastic extension horn You don’t have to worry about the sewer gasses they smell but unless you pour gasoline or other explosive chemicals down the drain your eyebrows will be safe..( they will grow back anyway!!!)
wax isnt hack, rubber deteriorates faster around water areas.
the other thing is that you didnt have to raise the floor, just the flanges that are bolted to the floor ( which in turn bolts to your toilet.) every professional plumber uses shims to fill the gap (believe it or not) and then tighten the toilet to the flanges. Once the toilet is snug ( no wobbling, you use a wood chisel and cut the shims), then you caulk the gap. This is the professional way. I think that you are attempting to make the commode a custom throne, and a little more complicated than you should. You may have to replace those little bolts because your plumber, more likely than not hacksawed them to fit under the dust cover when he installed the toilet the first time. Good luck, and yes, I apologize for getting testy, I am a plumber.