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Your Silver Clay Project Will Be Flawless With These Tips

Silver clay? Whatever is that?

Silver clay, precious metal clay, art metal clay, and art clay silver are all different terms and types of “clay” that may be magically turned into gold and silver.

These innovative metal clays were introduced to the North American market in the nineties. Jewelry enthusiasts and hobbyists can now shape and mold precious metal as easily as clay.

Making jewelry naturally has a long history. The difference today is that you now do not have to bang or cast your metal to make jewellery if you don’t wish to. Silver clay now makes it feasible to make real metal forms without these traditional methods.

Here is how metal clay functions. Art metal clays are composed of fine metal particles suspended in an organic binder. This binder lets you mould and shape the clay as you would potter’s clay. When you are happy with the form, you let your project dry for no less than twenty-four hours ( or even more ). You then fire it in a kiln or by employing a hand torch. The binder burns away, leaving the fused metal behind in the shape you formed it.

Before you grab a lump of silver clay and go at it though, you will need to keep 1 or 2 rules under consideration. Silver clay isn’t cheap, so you don’t want to waste it.

Silver Clay Tips

Here are a bunch of tips for working with silver clay :

*Metal clays shrink 10-30% when fired. Be sure to check your package for shrinkage levels particularly if you are making rings or other objects that must be exact fits.

*Not all metal clays can be hand torch fired. If you won’t be employing a kiln be certain to check that your kind of silver clay is “low fire”.

*Only small pieces should be torch fired. Pieces bigger than 25g should be kiln fired.

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*Silver clay is expensive. The gold version especially is very high-priced. Be certain to shop carefully and follow instructions carefully so you don’t burn your money fruitlessly.

*Metal Clay simply takes on impressions of other objects ( and fingerprints too ). Experiment with different textures and objects to make imprints onto the wet clay.

*Gemstones that may stand up to the heat of firing can be set into the wet clay.

*Be sure to let your metal clay dry fully before firing. Firing damp clay won’t work and you will not be a happy camper.

*Metal clays are sticky to the touch so be sure to coat everything with a thin film of olive oil or other release agent. This suggests coat your hands, your tools, and work surface. Just a touch of oil will do, so don’t go too far.

*You can improve drying time by placing your piece in a low heat stove. ( 150-200 degrees fahrenheit ). Pieces finely than your palm usually take approximately twenty-four hours to fully dry and toughen without the cooker treatment.

*Sand your dried and hardened piece before firing. If you do not like fingerprints, you will not be well placed to remove them after firing.

*Metal clay is soluble and can be fell with water. Keep a tiny bowl of water or a spritzer handy while you’re employed. If it starts to dry out while working, you can add a bit of water to dampen it.

*Buying smaller packages beats larger as you will not have to fret about the entire block drying out. The price difference is immaterial, and you may waste extra cash by needing to thru out old dried out clay.

*You can extend the working time of your metal clay by adding a drop or 2 of glycerin ( available at drug stores ) to your newly opened package of silver clay. To use : make a depression with your thumb in the clay, and add a drop or 2 of glycerin. Fold the clay a couple of times to mix in the glycerin, then spritz with water. Wrap in plastic wrap and let sit so the clay can absorb the glycerin. When you work with the clay the following day, use as always. This trick will extend the working time, but also extends the drying time required before firing.

*If you see a blackish mildew, do not be disturbed. This will burn away when firing. This mildew takes place when you use regular tap water to moisten the clay.

*Playing cards make great “spacers” when rolling out clay to an even thickness. Just stack cards on each side of the clay, then use your roller to roll out the clay between the cards.

*To store metal clay between uses, be certain to spritz with water and wrap it well with plastic wrap.

*different clays have different firing temperatures so be certain to match your firing temperature to your clay type.

*Once fired, you must brush and burnish it to get a great shine. First brush well with a stiff brush to loosen any ash or residue, then rinse with water. Then you’ll be wanting to burnish the metal to compress it, make it smoother, and shinier. Utilise a burnishing tool made from agate or metal for this. The tool has a smooth face and pointy tip for burnishing the more detailed areas.

*You can dunk the piece in water after firing to chill it quickly .

*Firing you clay too shortly, at too low a temperature, or for too short a time may cause your project to crack. Firing for too much time may melt some of the detail.

Now you have some silver clay suggestions, I bet you are psyched. You need to work with this innovative material now! What will you make first?

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Cast Iron Bathtubs Are Exquisitely Sublime!

For many, the bathtub is just a place to take a bath, an oasis when you need to soak your body in hot water to relieve stress or a headache, and of course, a drain for the water showering down from above. All these things are valid, but what about those times when you’re not using the tub? What about the times you do? Chances are your bathroom is decorated in a lovely pastel of your favorite and most relaxing trinkets and pictures. Your walls are adorned with towel racks and on those racks are aesthetically pleasing towels, but your tub may not be so aesthetically exciting right? Imagine now, if you will, cast iron bathtubs. How would one of these lovely tubs look in your bathroom?

For years people have done everything they could to make their bathroom look amazing. After all, when company comes over where do they often go at least once? The beauty of cast iron bathtubs is that they solve all the needs of the perfect bathroom in one unit. The cast iron tub is gorgeous, often trimmed with beautiful accents and you can even get a clawfoot cast iron tub as well if you really want to impress people- and yourself!

A tub should be deep as well as wide, big enough for you to lay in it head to toe without having to touch the top or bottom if you don’t wish (to float essentially). It should be wide enough to do the same to some degree, but more so to give your arms room to spread out and relax. The tub should “feel” like it’s important, in that when you’re in it you feel you’re in a foundation capable of holding the water and keeping it’s temperature the same. One lovely thing about cast iron bathtubs are it’s ability to hold the water temperature better than say acrylic or plastic materials. When you grip onto the side of the tub, it’s a lot more exciting when the tub has that warm rigid feel to it, but smooth and polished as these tubs often are.

Cast iron is heavy and isn’t for every home, especially upstairs homes with older foundations that aren’t reinforced rigidly. Most homes however can accommodate a cast iron tub but you should make sure the tub is not too heavy if your in an older home, or if termites may be an issue, this will be the first thing to fall through the floor!

Simon Harris writes about all types of small bathtubs at: http://www.bestsmallbathtubs.com

Chemical Treatment of Your Cast Iron Radiators

Cast iron radiators require appropriate chemical treatment for their general protection to give lifelong service without problems.

The main problem areas in cast iron radiators are firstly cold spots, these are caused by black sludge (magnetite) in the closed water system. They normally appear at the bottom of the radiator. Cold spots will eventually lead to blockages and poor circulation around the general heating system.

Secondly frequent venting, this will be noticed when the radiators are turned on for the first time in the cold season. The cast iron radiator will give a slight bad smell when ‘bleeding’ the air out. This is due to lime scale iron oxides. The problems this will cause increased emissions from the boiler, higher fuel bills and reduce efficiency of the boiler. Thirdly sticking valves are a problem caused again by lime scale causing lack of water flow into the radiator and the valve not working correctly.

All these problems are most likely caused by using no inhibitor or an inferior inhibitor within the system. Good quality chemical protectors are strongly advised, offering you long term protection against corrosion and keeping your heating system running clear of any lime scale damage.

Good quality chemical cleaners are used before the protector is diluted into the system. These cleaners will remove sludge, scaling and restore heating efficiency in existing systems. Cleaner will also reduce boiler noise and help to condition the system prior to using good quality chemical protectors.

Having your system power flushed before installing the inhibitor is recommended. This will help get rid of any excess debris and dirt in the system.

Never run your central heating system without an inhibitor. Most reputable central heating chemical companies will have a testing laboratory to test your water and advise the appropriate chemical treatment. Testing kits are sent out from the laboratory for you to fill with you central heating water and cost around £30. As a general rule of thumb if you do not wish to use a laboratory you can tell if you have enough inhibitor within your system by taking a jar with a screw lid and fill it with some water from the header tank. Put some steel or iron nails in the jar, and screw the lid tight. If the nails start to rust after 2 weeks, you do not have enough inhibitor in your system. The presence of a good quality inhibitor prevents the corrosion and rusting of your cast iron radiators from the inside and in so doing stops the production of gases that require bleeding. Inhibitor also acts as a lubricant for the pump, helping to increase its life.

Reputable suppliers of cast iron radiators such as Paladin Radiators have worked with Fernox and tested their radiators for compatibility with the chemicals required. It is advisable to take professional advice from your heating engineer or plumber before chemically treating your system and adhering to recommendations sent by cast iron radiator manufacturers for chemical treatments that are compatible.

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The Advantage Of Using Cast Iron Guttering To Collect Rain Water

You can find anything you like on the internet and if you just type in the word rainwater you will come across many articles about whether it is safe to drink.

Considering half the world lives in a climate where the scarcity of water means that rain is always collected as it falls and without hesitation drunk, it is surprising to read some comments about the possible dangers of drinking it. Of course the doubters all live in affluent cities and probably do not even drink tap water but buy expensive bottled water instead.

Some people collect water from rain that falls on the roofs of their houses and passes along their cast iron guttering into a vat or barrel. The question of whether this is drinkable is presumably just one of necessity or not. In some countries like for example England, it is almost irresponsible not to have a barrel collecting water from the downpipe of the cast iron gutters if there is a garden to be watered.

Occasionally there is such a lack of summer rain that a hose pipe ban is declared which may last for weeks. At this point the gardener with his forethought will have a huge tub of water for watering his garden. All this water collected previously from the flow along the cast iron guttering of his house will now come in very handy to save his flowerbeds.

If the hose pipe ban stays for more than a week or two then water authorities in England use helicopters to identify any suspiciously green lawns in towns and cities. This draconian attitude is a big deterrent to anyone thinking of sneaking out in the middle of the night whilst his neighbours are asleep and watering his lawn with a hose connected to a house tap.

Fines can be enormous when the officials from the water authority come knocking at the door. If however, you can prove that the only reason your garden looks greener than anyone else’s is because you had the foresight to collect barrels of water by collecting rain water from the downpipe of your cast iron gutters then you should be let off.

As it happens, many gardeners use the water from their guttering system all year round whether there is a water ban or not. Since the privatisation of water companies in England there are several independent suppliers covering several regions. Some of these companies charge a set quarterly rate and others insist on a water meter. Any keen gardener with a meter can save himself a lot of money by using all the rainwater he can collect. This practice of collecting gutter water is going to increase dramatically because of the combination of escalating water prices and also the fact that it has just been announced by the government that every house without exception will have to be fitted with a water meter by the end of next year.

There Is So Much More To Find Out On Cast Iron Radiator

Have you ever obtained a cast iron radiator in your house? We all want to dwell in a brand new house, with new fittings, however unfortunately that’s just not possible. So, in your house you can still be utilizing a cast iron radiator, although they are now not being laid out in new buildings. In your personal safety it’s a great idea to know a couple of information about the way you cast iron radiator works and what can go wrong.

The basic design of a cast iron radiator is mainly unchanged as it was launched nearly two hundred years ago. Heated water from a supply similar to a boiler passes through tubes or fins within the radiator that is manufactured from cast iron. The forged iron fins of the radiator soak up warmth from the hot water passing by it. Cast iron is used in the radiator as it includes a high warmth retention capability, that means it’ll keep warm. So, as the hot water passes by way of the cast iron radiator it should slowly warmth up, that heat is then dissipated slowly, warming the room or other area.

When cast iron radiators were first introduced cast iron was a very common metal, though it is not so much in use in the present day, as new materials have surpassed the advantages of cast iron in areas similar to warmth retention and strength. However, if you stay in an older home your radiator will most certainly still be made of cast iron.

Cast iron radiators are preferable for many individuals as there isn’t any shifting air inside the system. Heating systems that employ using transferring air can have an effect on people who endure from allergy symptoms or skin problems negatively. For this reason many people choose cast iron radiators to fashionable designs.

The scale and quantity of fins or tubes of the cast iron radiator will decide how rapidly and effectively it may warm an area. The size of the cast iron radiator and the number of tubes is included determines the surface space of heated cast iron exposed to the area. The bigger the radiator the more floor area there’s to warmth the air around the cast iron radiator and therefore the room. That is why in larger rooms, like colleges, you will typically find a bigger cast iron radiator than you would in rooms in your home.

Since there are little or no moving components on a cast iron radiator there’s little or no that may break, or go incorrect with them, though when you have ever lived having a cast iron radiator you’ll know some might be noisy! Which means that they require little upkeep, though age can be a figuring factor and an older cast iron radiator might give you trouble.

As with anything in the house that produces heat, care have to be exercised and safety precautions taken. Though a cast iron radiator will not burn you if touched, a protracted interval of contact with the cast iron radiator fins may undoubtedly end in a burn. So, if you have kids or pets make sure they are being monitored if they’re in a room where there’s a cast iron radiator.

The problems with steel foundries in China

There are three kinds of steel foundries in China. One is the sand casting foundries, then the water glass investment steel casting workshops, and the silica sol investment steel casting workshops. We usually called the investment casting as precision casting process.

What kinds of products can these casting workshops produce?

As for the sand casting workshop, they usually make the steel castings with material of normal carbon steel, and some kinds of alloy steel. The prefer weights are from 5kg to 400kg. With normal surface and inside quality requirements, and simple machining. They usually use the green sand or CO2 gas hardening sand as the materials. The problems with these foundries are their production efficiency is low. Since they use the traditional manual molding process, their annual output is small. They can not meet the delivery time for the large orders. Second problem is their surface quality is not good. This is the common problem for all sand castings. Thirdly, they can not do the high precision machining. These workshops are usually able to make the simple machining. Of course, I do not mean all the steel foundries do not have CNC centers. Some large steel foundries have many good machines for machining.

As for the water glass investment casting workshops, they use the water glass and yellow wax as the material. We also call this casting process as lost wax casting process. This process can keep very good dimensional and surface requirements, and these workshops usually use the medium-frequency induction furnace, therefore, they can make some alloy steels. Their problems are they can not make large or heavy castings. Their prefer size is between 50mm to 300mm, and prefer weight is between 0.3kg to 5kg. This is restricted by the lost wax process.

As for the silica sol investment steel casting workshops, they use the materials of yellow wax and silica solution. So, they can keep the higher level for the surface quality and dimensional requirements. According to the experience of Mr. Galen Wang from Dandong Ruiding Foundry, the silica sol investment casting process can reach the best surface quality and dimensions. Their problems are as same as the water glass investment casting process. They have size and weight restriction. In addition, their production costs are usually three times of water glass investment castings. Therefore, unless you need absolutely high surface quality and dimensions, this process is not your best choice.

By the way, all steel foundries are not willing to make iron castings. It is because the pig iron used for making steel castings is not same as that used for making iron castings. We call this pig iron as steel pig or pig iron for steel making.

We hope this article can help the overseas buyers and purchasers to learn more about the steel foundries in China, so, they can choose the most suitable suppliers for their products.

This article was originally written by Mr. Galen Wang from Dandong Ruiding Foundry

Foundry Equipment, Sand Casting, Sand Core Making, Core Shooting Machines Shell Molding Machines Shell Moulding Machines Sand Core Making Resin Sand Core Making Iron Casting Sand Casting Green Sand Casting Foundry Core Making

Heated Towel Rails and Cast Iron Radiators Make a Perfect Bathroom

A warm towel is very desirable after a shower. Heated towel rails fulfill this with a note of bliss. There are numerous types of heated towel rails available, the most prevalent being electric towel warmers and hydraulic towel warmers.

Electric towel warmers: 
This lineage is provided with several rails and can be attached to the wall. When switched on, it heats the towel or any other piece of clothing spread over its rails. These warmers are available in multitudinous shapes, sizes as well as finishes.

Hydraulic towel warmers: 
In this variant, hot water circulates through the frame to heat the towels. It often transfers the heat to its immediate surroundings. It is considered as an element of luxury and used in large apartment complexes and hotels.

Cast iron radiators find their main application in heating systems. The air that comes in contact with the heated surface of these radiators, in turn through convection, gets heated and then circulates throughout the room/enclosed space. Hot water is used in most of the modern radiators. In order to achieve maximum efficiency, the radiators’ covers must be provided with sufficient openings.

The heat produced might reduce drastically if the valves are clogged. It is, therefore, important to bleed the valves regularly. Also, it is imperative not to allow any obstructions like curtains and furniture block the flow of heat. The heat output of cast iron radiators depends upon:

1. Ambient temperature 
2. Radiator’s surface temperature 
3. Surface area of the radiator

Some of the well known types are steam radiators and hot water radiators. Steam radiators, as the name suggests, use steam as their source of heat. Similarly, for hot water radiators, the heat source is hot water, the common factor between both being their primary function of heating the surrounding air.

Importance of High pressure pump

Most often high-pressure pumps are used at different commercial and industrial applications. A simple that can generate pressure is known as pump. A pump can be high pressure pump if it can generate a pressure exceeding 800 psi. A moderate high-pressure pump can generate pressure between 800 to 3000 psi. There are very high-pressure pumps and ultra high-pressure pumps also. An ultra high-pressure pump generates a pressure between 10,000 psi to 40,000 psi and a very high-pressure pump delivers a pressure between 3000 psi to 5000 psi. These pumps are used where some substance liquid or gas is needed to be moved.

Different high-pressure pumps come with different features. They may include stop function, timer, flow rate display, multifunction valves and many other features. When you purchase a high-pressure pump take into account a few important considerations. You should consider things like output flow rate, output pressure and applicable substance. The output flow rate is measured in terms of liters, milliliters, quarts and gallons per minute or per hours whereas output pressure is measured as pounds per square inch. You must also consider the applicable substance as if the substance is corrosive type, you will need a corrosion-free pump. Make sure that high-pressure pumps are designed to work effectively when the user put them to use.

High-pressure pumps are used in variety of applications. You should high-pressure pump for the kind of product you are using it. Once you purchase a pressure pump, it is important to maintain them to keep them functioning for longer. A little maintenance can prevent pump failure and save your money and time.

High-pressure pumps are known for their reliability and long-life. There are thousands of applications where they are used including pressure cleaning, car wash, reverse osmosis, oil processing, CO2 and foam fighting and DI water misting. Since these pumps are used to transport several types of liquids, their wet ends are available in stainless steel, nodular cast iron and bronze.

If you require Water pumps you can search online for the manufacturers providing these products.

Properly Seasoning of Cast Iron Pans

Manufacturers usually treat traditional cast iron cookware in some form to prevent rust from occurring during a shipment. Generally, they use food oil, which is simple to wash off. The coating from the manufacturer must be removed before you proceed with seasoning your cookware.  Seasoning cast irons is critical for the maintenance and durability of your cookware. Traditional cast irons contain pores that if not properly seasoned could cause your food to stick to your pan. Improper care also promotes rust occurring on your cookware as well.  However, with the proper maintenance of your cookware, it can last for generations.

Use the instructions below for proper treatment of your NEW cast iron cookware:

Wash cast iron cookware with warm soapy water and use a Brillo pad or steel wool to scrub the cookware well.  This will help to loosen and release the prior treatment used by manufacturers or any rust that may reside on your cookware.
Rinse your cast iron thoroughly to ensure that the particles that you have scrubbed off no longer reside on your cookware.
Thoroughly dry the cast iron to ensure that there is no moisture left. It may help to heat the cast iron on the stove top for 5 – 10 minutes.
Lightly coat the inside and outside of your cookware with a congealed oil such as a vegetable oil, shortening, or lard.  (This aids to fill-in and coat the pores of your cookware. Note: Butter and margarine should not be used in this process.) Be sure to coat the handle and lid, if applicable.
Place the cast iron cookware in the oven, upside down, at 350 degrees for one hour. (Layer the bottom of your oven with aluminum foil to catch any oil drippings. Note: Turning the cookware upside down will aid in the prevention of gummy oil buildup. Another way to prevent gummy oil buildup is to wipe away excess oil after 15 minutes in the oven.) The heat helps to lock in the oils and create a smooth, non-stick surface.
Let the cookware cool to room temperature.
Repeat steps 4 – 6, three times.

Other considerations for the care and maintenance of your cast iron cookware include the following:

When using and electric range, pre-heat cast iron cookware slowly on medium to medium-low heat.
When your cast iron cookware is at high temperatures, do not place cold water in your cookware. This will cause your cookware to crack instantly.
Limit cooking with acidic foods (e.g. tomatoes, vinegar) as this breaks down the seasoning.
Do not keep leftover food in the cast iron cookware for too long. The acid in the food could begin to breakdown the seasoning. You can prevent this from happening by transferring leftover food into a glass or plastic container prior to refrigeration.
Do not boil water in your cast irons.
Do not store your cast iron pans and pots with a lid. Keeping the lid on could promote moisture, which could lead to rusting.
Do not use dishwashing soap to clean your cast iron cookware day-to-day.  This will open pores and over time make it susceptible to retain bacteria from food. Simply wipe and rinse your cookware under warm water. However, if you do decide to use dishwashing soap, it is necessary that you season your cast iron cookware in the oven as described above. However, do not let your cookware soak in soapy water or expose it to water for any length of time.

More Cast Iron Manufacturers Articles

Plumbing Tips – Inspection

It is clearly important to be able to gain access to all parts of the underground drains. This is usually done by providing inspection chambers at various points. To meet the Building Regulations, cham¬bers have to be provided: at junctions between drains; where the drain changes direction or gradient; at or near the beginning of the drain; and at intervals of not more than 45m on long, straight runs. In between the inspection cham¬bers, the drains should be laid in straight lines.

The usual form of an inspection cham¬ber has sides made of brick, often cement-rendered either on the inside or the out¬side. At the base of the hole are open channels to which the drains are connec¬ted and along which the water in the drains runs.

The inspection chamber is at a junction between three drains. The branch drain is connected to the main one with a specially shaped half-channel bend which is swept in the direction of the flow of water through the main channel.

The channels are built up with benching – smoothly finished concrete shaped to direct any splashes back into the chan¬nels. The top of an inspection chamber is covered with a manhole cover a heavy, cast-iron plate set in a cast-iron frame. If there is a manhole cover within a building it usually has to be screwed down to the frame and the joint sealed with grease.

With modern drain materials, it may not be necessary to have full-scale inspec¬tion chambers at all junctions and bends in the drain. Instead, rodding points may be used. Small circular inspection cham¬bers may also be fitted.

A rodding point has a length of pipe with a gentle bend connected at an angle to the drain. The other end of the pipe leads to ground level and is covered with a suitable removable cover. If the drain needs unblocking, the cover is removed and drain rods passed down into the drain. Rodding points are small and neat – unlike large, ugly manhole covers – but some inspection chambers may still be needed.

In older properties, the inspection chamber at the boundary of the property may have an interceptor trap fitted at the outlet of the channel. To gain access to the length of drain between the trap and the main sewer, the trap has its own rod¬ding arm which bypasses the U-bend. The rodding arm is fitted with a stopper (sometimes secured with a chain) to prevent the drain water from bypassing the U-bend, too.

This inspection chamber may also be ventilated by means of a short pipe pro¬jecting above ground from the side of the chamber. The pipe is usually fitted with a grilled ventilator, behind which is a flap. The theory is that the flap allows fresh air into the drain but prevents foul air from escaping. Ventilators are probably more of a hindrance than a help, and damaged ones can be removed completely rather than repaired. Interceptor traps also give problems the rodding arm stopper can fall out and cause a blockage in the trap if it is not suspended by a chain.